The Short List: Two notable climbs in the Selkirks
From Sandpoint, drive north on Highway 95 for 13 miles and turn left (west) onto Road No. 231, Upper Pack River Road. Go about 16 miles to West Branch Road No. 2653, turn left and go one-half mile to the Chimney Rock Trail No. 256 trailhead. Hike Trail No. 256 for approximately six miles to the base of Chimney Rock’s East Face. The Canary Legs to Cooper-Hiser (5.10b) begins in the obvious lie-back crack in the center of the face, which makes up the right side of a detached flake. At the top of the flake, enter a gully and climb it to a bolted belay. Move left onto beautiful flakes and cracks that are followed to a massive ledge. Tunnel behind the obvious chimney and gain the South Nose of Chimney Rock, which is climbed to the top. Rappel off the northwest tip of the formation.
The Lion’s Head
From the town of Coolin located off Highway 57 near Priest Lake, drive the East Shore Road for approximately 26.5 miles. Turn right onto Forest Service Road No. 44. Follow this road until it crosses Abandoned Creek. Turn right and park at the hairpin turn. Follow the climbers’ trail up to the base of The Lion’s Head and then traverse around to the southeast face. Southeast Face to East Ridge Linkup (III 5.8) begins on the right (east) side of the southeast face, where there is an obvious slab covered in lime-green lichen. Climb this slab up into obvious double-cracks, which are climbed to a belay point below a dihedral/corner. Climb the corner until you are forced out right via face climbing to a notch on the East Ridge. Follow the crest of the East Ridge, passing through rock bulges (a few pitons will be encountered here) to the top. Rappel down the southwest face.